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We use cookies to improve our service for you. You can find more information in our data protection declaration. Noses are overrated: In June, a perfume created by a computer system will be launched on the Brazilian market. The artificial intelligence involved combined ingredients in a manner unthinkable to most humans. The artificial intelligence is called 'Philyra' - and its developers and users agree on one thing: It is female.

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How perfumers walk the fine line between natural and synthetic

VIDEO ON THE TOPIC: MIXER: DESIGN, DEVELOPMENT & CONTRACT MANUFACTURING OF FRAGRANCES AND COSMETICS

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Log in here. Already an ACS Member? Choose the membership that is right for you. Discounts will be applied automatically at checkout. Your account has been created successfully, and a confirmation email is on the way. Credit: Shutterstock A crop of lavender being harvested in France. Thanks to synthetic chemistry, fragrance lovers can enjoy all the best scents that nature can provide and many that nature cannot.

Perfumers work their invisible art by carefully selecting from a palette of thousands of compounds, of which only a small fraction are from natural sources. A growing number of perfume buyers say they prefer natural scents. But satisfying this desire can put fragrance firms in a bind. Read on to see how companies are resolving conflicting demands to provide perfume ingredients that are good for people and good for the environment.

Springtime in Grasse, France, is a fragrant affair. The town and its surroundings enjoy a warm, maritime climate perfect for growing lavender, jasmine, and the hundred-petaled, or centifolia, rose. How perfumers walk the fine line between natural and synthetic.

His Chanel No. Chanel No. Related: Farming a flower to help perfume last longer. The availability of synthetics allowed the industry to reach the mass market for the first time. And cost was not the only reason for the switch. While some synthetic chemicals imitated nature, others gave perfumers a larger scent palette to work from.

Today, perfumers still turn to aldehydes to lighten heavy florals with a clean, soapy, lemony zing. Indeed, almost all fine fragrances today combine synthetic scent molecules with traditional essential oils derived from flowers, roots, fruit, wood, and moss.

But the balance is beginning to tilt again toward the flower growers of Grasse. Consumer desire for natural ingredients has already shaken up the packaged food and household cleaner industries; now it is coming for perfume. Marketing themes such as wellness and aromatherapy are affecting the ingredients that perfume brands prefer to buy, says JimRomine, president of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials.

Funded by a consortium of fragrance companies, RIFM tests the safety of fragrance ingredients. Fragrance industry insiders say the natural trend has been a boon especially to new and boutique fragrance houses. Not tied to older formulas that rely on synthetics, they can decide what level of natural content works best for their audiences. Ingredients must be safe for human health and the environment, free from shortages or extreme price swings, and not sourced from animals.

To say a perfume smells natural is certainly a compliment, but some natural scents are problematic. The recipe for Chanel No. The European Union says they are allergens and has moved to restrict them. Similarly, while lavender from Grasse can be produced in needed quantities with minimal impact on land or people, the same cannot be said for other important inputs, such as sandalwood, vanilla , and patchouli. Arienti is a veteran of the perfume industry who now works independently to develop fragrances for clients and train new perfumers.

She also creates her own fragrances. Some raw materials grow in regions that may be ecologically or economically sensitive, Arienti points out. In those places, land use can be an ethical issue. The oil is produced from the wood of trees that are 30 to 60 years old.

Harvesting for perfumery has driven the evergreen trees to all but extinction, and exports are now heavily restricted. Related: The problem with vanilla. Do you use it to grow food? Over the years, fragrance firms have developed sandalwood replacements with ever-higher olfactory power that can be used in small quantities.

In contrast, Anya McCoy is a perfumer who works only with ingredients derived from plants. She is also president of the Natural Perfumers Guild. That changed around with the rise of perfume blogs. Early online influencers started writing about how great natural perfumes smell. The internet, and online sales, helped the niche industry grow. Her fragrances also attract people who are turned off by what she calls big-smelling perfumes.

Shortages and price fluctuations are part of the natural fragrance game. Access to some substances can even disappear entirely. When the producer stopped supplying it, she had to discontinue the fragrance that used it.

But firms such as Givaudan and Firmenich, which sell ingredients to the major perfume brands, do. It moved to acquire Albert Vieille, a Grasse-area firm that sources natural ingredients from around the world. And it inked a partnership with Synthite, an Indian producer of floral extracts and essential oils, including those of jasmine, tuberose, ginger, and cardamom. Although ingredient firms like Givaudan are following the natural trend, it presents a conundrum.

Perfume users may say they prefer natural ingredients, but avoiding synthetics would rule out many of their favorite scents. Natural fragrance ingredients number in the hundreds; perfumers have more than 3, synthetic molecules at their disposal.

None of those methods can capture the molecules that waft from a delicate flower like lily of the valley. And the role of the animalistic aromas of musk, used in even the freshest-smelling perfumes, cannot be satisfied with only plant-derived replacements. Mainland, associate member of the Monell Chemical Senses Center, a nonprofit research organization. They add a certain je ne sais qoi to nearly every popular perfume.

But musks, and the desire to imitate them, have been a headache for chemists for a century. Musk scent was once derived from the glands of animals such as the musk deer, which roamed the mountains of southern Asia. Generally, obtaining the scent meant killing the deer. Synthetic muscone is made today, but only in small quantities.

The first widely available synthetic musk replacements—nitro musks, a group that includes musk ambrette—were discovered by accident. In the s, they were found to be carcinogenic and to persist in the environment. Since then, the use of nitro musks has been phased out. A plant-based alternative is pricey ambrette seed oil, made from the seeds of the musk mallow, which grows in the Andes.

The company Aroma Chemical Services International sells two less-expensive molecules inspired by ambrette seed oil. Dihydroambrettolide is made via a semisynthetic pathway. Sensory science has yet to find the key to matching up odor molecules to the roughly odor receptors in the human nose.

Scientists also have not figured out how those matches relate to how people perceive smells. With more of this kind of knowledge, Mainland says, he could develop assays to screen libraries of molecules to find ones that trigger, for example, the perception of musk.

The development of totally new synthetic scent molecules has slowed in the past decade because of the burden of safety regulations and the emphasis on using scents from nature, Mainland says. Assays can help firms make the most of the existing catalog. Related: Unilever completes fragrance disclosure. Large fragrance and ingredient firms like Givaudan are developing nonendangered, sustainable sources of natural ingredients.

At the same time, the company has launched a program to make the synthetic side of its business sustainable as well.

Contact us to opt out anytime. He distilled their ideas into guidelines called the FiveCarbon Path, which will sound familiar to anyone trained in green chemistry. The path calls for increasing the use of renewable carbon, increasing carbon efficiency in synthesis, maximizing biodegradable carbon, increasing the odor impact of each carbon, and upcycling carbon from side streams into products.

Although the path was announced only this year, it is already affecting the processes selected by Givaudan scientists, Compton says. Biotechnology is another way to harness renewable carbon. Firms like Amyris and Ginkgo Bioworks have developed engineered microbes that produce scent molecules, such as patchouli, by fermenting sugar.

Many molecules are going to continue to come from petroleum. Higher prices for natural aroma chemicals mean they are a better target than synthetic compounds for fermentation experts. For every high-cost or difficult-to-source natural molecule, there is at least one fragrance firm or start-up looking to produce it with microbes.

The effort can lead to surprising results. ACSI already produced its own version, isoambrettolide, from aleuritic acid using a semisynthetic pathway. But the firm sourced the aleuritic acid from shellac, produced by the lac bug and harvested in India.

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Sensing the World : An Anthropology of the Senses. David Le Breton. Bloomsbury Publishing , Sensing the World: An Anthropology of the Senses is a highly original and comprehensive overview of the anthropology and sociology of the body and the senses. Discussing each sense in turn — seeing, hearing, touch, smell, and taste — Le Breton has written a truly monumental work, vast in scope and deeply engaging in style.

Now, Even Your Perfume May Be The Result Of Artificial Intelligence

Account Options Sign in. Ver eBook. Fundamentals of Fragrance Chemistry. Charles S. Comprehensively teaches all of the fundamentals of fragrance chemistry Ernest Beaux, the perfumer who created Chanel No. In perfumery, the future lies primarily in the hands of chemists.

Why smelling good could come with a cost to health

In a previous article , we explained that the scent of certain plants was naturally impossible to catch. So how can some perfumes claim to be made of lily of the valley, lilac or lily for instance? Thanks to synthetic materials! In the perfume industry, synthesis is a well-known term and its use intrigues as much as it fascinates.

SEE VIDEO BY TOPIC: NATURAL FRAGRANCES VS SYNTHETIC
A guide to cosmetic creams that focuses on formulation, production, and safety concerns Cosmetic Creams: Development, Manufacture and Marketing of Effective Skin Care Products puts the focus on the structure and formulation of a cosmetic cream, the production process, the effect of each ingredient, as well as safety considerations.

Scroll to bottom for links to share this page on Facebook and other sites. You will be doing your body a favor, cleaning up the air and the environment, and also helping the millions of people struggling with Chemical Sensitivities and related illnesses, some you may know and some you may not. You will be making a world of difference. For those of you who want to go completely fragrance-free, I will give you a lot of detail here. If you feel overwhelmed by it all, here are the four most important changes you can make:. Most l ikely you will feel your own health improving from these four steps as well, and will want to explore going further. The next several sections offer a step-by-step guide f or reducing your chemical and fragrance footprint. Essential Oils: Many chemically sensitive people can tolerate products that are not labeled fragrance-free, but only contain scents from organic essential oils, which are made from plants, flowers, and other natural sources. When I mention essential oils in the following sections, I am referring only to high-quality organic essential oils that have no chemical ingredients. It can be very complicated to understand the quality of essential oils.

BASF bulks up in biotech: ‘An efficient and sustainable route to produce natural ingredients’

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The influence of fragrances such as perfumes and room fresheners on the psychophysiological activities of humans has been known for a long time, and its significance is gradually increasing in the medicinal and cosmetic industries. A fragrance consists of volatile chemicals with a molecular weight of less than Da that humans perceive through the olfactory system.

Life as a committed vegan can sometimes feel like an endless maze of complicated ingredients lists compiled by companies that all seem to have something to hide. Nevertheless, there remain some key ingredients to look out for. Perfume lovers must not only avoid fragrances made with extracts of milk, honey, leather and beeswax, but also secretions from animals used to mark their territories, which are often used as fixatives to make a scent last longer. Civet comes from the anal glands of the endangered wildcat found in India and Africa. Other animals to suffer in the name of humans smelling good are East Asian musk deer and North American and European beavers, killed for their musk and castoreum respectively. This is sometimes found washed up on beaches or floating as a rank-smelling fecal mass, but whales have been killed for it, too. You can trust our independent reviews. We may earn commission from some of the retailers, but we never allow this to influence selections, which are formed from real-world testing and expert advice.

Oct 24, - IBM and Symrise, a major fragrance producer, have come up with what "white space" before suggesting not only formulas that may resonate  Missing: production ‎| Must include: production.

Artificial intelligence creates perfumes without being able to smell them

Anyone looking to improve their brand identity and presence in marketing campaigns using the sense of smell are our kind of customer! No job is the same for us here; from the quirky and bonkers campaigns for TV and tourist boards, to household brand names using their own fragrances in global campaigns, to hotels wanting their spaces to smell fabulous- we cover it all. Send us an email at info aromaco. In the midst of the explosion in the number of communication channels with consumers, and within such a crowded marketplace, emotional engagement with brands has never been more important. The more frequently and consistently a brand can connect with a consumer on an emotional level, the strong and deeper the brand engagement. Research has shown that of the five senses smell is the sense most linked to our emotional recollection. So, when linked to a product, it can reap dividends. The Aroma Company provide solutions for incorporating scent into marketing and communications to:.

Innovators in Scent Marketing

The German chemical giant has acquired Isobionics, an 'innovation leader' in biotechnology serving the global market for natural flavours and fragrances. It has also entered into a cooperation agreement with biotechnology research company Conagen. Financial details of the transactions were not disclosed. BASF is a leading supplier of synthetic aroma ingredients. However, within our BASF aroma ingredients business, this is the first move towards the natural aroma ingredients sector. So far, we have been developing and producing synthetic aroma ingredients. Through the acquisition and cooperation agreements, BASF will add a number of natural ingredients to its portfolio. Isobionics is a biotech-based aroma ingredients company located in Geleen, the Netherlands. It develops and produces a 'wide range' of natural ingredients with a focus on citrus oil components such as nootkatone and valencene. The natural vanillin that BASF will initially market is based on ferulic acid sourced from rice and therefore named 'Natural Vanillin F'.

Synthetic perfume: an inspiring match

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The Benefits of Synthetic Fragrances In Commercial Products

Futuristic fragrance: New biotech unlocks scents that have never been sniffed. Perfumery has always been an intricate science; much more effort goes into capturing a scent than those outside the industry might imagine.

Artificial intelligence creates perfumes without being able to smell them

Instead, one word, fragrance, appears on ingredients lists for countless cosmetics, personal care and cleaning products. A single scent may contain anywhere from 50 to distinct chemicals. Three-quarters of the toxic chemicals detected in a test of products came from fragrance, reported a BCPP study of personal care and cleaning brands. The chemicals identified were linked to chronic health issues, including cancer.

Futuristic fragrance: New biotech unlocks scents that have never been sniffed

Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin , which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics alone. The word perfume derives from the Latin perfumare , meaning "to smoke through". Perfumery, as the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia , Egypt , the Indus Valley Civilization and maybe Ancient China.

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